Chapter 7 Egypt

Jeddah to Constantinople

January 5, 1910: In the morning we woke up and had tea, and then Nawab sahib went to arrange our transport. I had a little breakfast, but I’m still not feeling completely well. Meanwhile, Mahmud Asfi’s wife, daughter, and daughter-in-law all came to see me. I said a few things to them in Arabic. We talked until nine in the morning. Nawab sahib came and said, “Come quickly. I’ve arranged for us to go out to the ship with the ship officer. If we miss this, then we will have to arrange another boat for ourselves, which may or may not be possible. The ship is anchored far away, and the wind is still gusting.” I was already ready, in any case. Our things had already been sent to the port. We said goodbye to everyone and went to the port.

I’m weak from my fever and cannot walk fast, but, al-hamdulillah, we arrived at our destination on time. The ship’s officer was waiting in the boat. We boarded immediately, but our baggage had been placed somewhere some distance away from us. The servants were still working on bringing us our things when the ship’s officer started to make a scene, telling us to hurry. Nawab sahib said, “I’ll go get them myself.” He had me sit in the boat and went to go and bring the luggage. And what do you think the officer said as he left? “If you are not back in five minutes, then I am going to leave, and I’ll take your wife with me. You’ll be left behind.” I said, “What’s this? If that’s your plan, then get me off the boat right now.” Sarkar went quickly and got the luggage.1

We left Amina bi behind in Jeddah. We told her, “You travel with the caravan and bring with you whatever of our things we’ve left behind. Go straight back to Hyderabad Deccan with the servant Mahmud Ali. We will return later. We have arranged everything for you already.” After explaining all this, al-hamdulillah, we departed.

It was very windy, and the boat moved swiftly. This is the same type of sailboat they call a bagla here. They shift the sail to match the wind’s direction. It is not easy to navigate.

The sea was “rough” today, and the boat was tossed about. There are many rocks in the sea around Jeddah. They have been marked so that boats do not accidentally crash into them. The boats maneuver around them carefully. Ships are anchored so far offshore that it takes a full two hours to reach them. Our boat bounced and flounced its way through the sea. At one point it was tossed onto some rocks that made the boat shudder. Two sailors immediately leaped into the water, swam beneath the boat, and slowly freed it. I was a bit frightened. Seeing my reaction, the ship’s officer, who was English, said “Don’t worry, there’s nothing to fear.” Thank God, a thousand thanks to God, the boat was righted, and we reached the ship in no time thanks to the strong winds. We all boarded safely. This is the Assouan, a large, fine ship, clean and bright.2 We were given a spacious six-bed cabin. One of the features of this ship and something that I really liked was that the women’s dining table is entirely separate from the main dining area. It is marked off with large, yellow curtains. There is also a separate drawing room for women that is well-appointed too. This made me very happy.

We are traveling in first class. We arrived at lunchtime. The table was already set. We went for lunch along with the other passengers. The ship set sail at zuhr. Because I am still not healthy, I felt seasick, which I was not expecting at all. I vomited repeatedly, so forcefully that I lost my composure. Nawab sahib began to worry. He took me from the cabin and brought me up to the deck and had me lie down there. He plied me with lemon sherbets and the like until finally, at eight, I began to feel better. This nausea ended up working out in my favor because it cleared out everything in my stomach that was making me ill. At eight I had something small to eat and then returned to my cabin to sleep.

January 6, 1910: We woke up in the morning. Today I feel much better. I thanked God and got dressed. We went up to the deck to take a walk. Then we went to the dining room and had breakfast. I wrote in my diary at the table and then went on deck. There was an Egyptian officer having a walk there who was the same age as my brothers Akbar Beg and Haidar Beg. He seems very affable. He came over to me, and we began to chat. He knows a little English but speaks French and Arabic very well. After exchanging a few words, he asked me, “Do you know how to play draughts?” I told him I did, so he very eagerly retrieved his board, and we sat to play. I beat him twice. He beat me once. He was very happy when that happened. We continued playing until lunch. Nawab sahib even watched us play. Then we went to have lunch in the drawing room.

After the meal Nawab sahib told me, “Go into the ladies drawing room. There is a piano there that you can play. There are some other ladies there too.” I went, but I could only remember one ghazal. Here are two of its lines:

Saqiya mai deh ki durdi-kash-e mai-khana-imBa kharabat ashna o ba khirad bigana-im3

I played it on the piano. Then a Turkish man came and sat at the piano. He played very well. The session came to an end. I am still feeling a little seasick although I am a very good “sailor.” I’ve traveled on so many ships without ever getting sick, but this time, because of my fever, I’m not feeling well at all. Anyhow, we both wrote in our diaries until four, teatime. We had tea and went to the deck for a walk. It is cold today, and the wind is sharp. We chatted until dinnertime. When the bell rang, everyone went to their cabin to wash up and refresh their clothes. We both went back to the deck after the meal, but it was too cold, so we quickly returned to the cabin. We prayed isha and went to bed.

January 7, 1910: We prayed fajr at dawn and then washed up, got dressed, and went down to the dining room for tea. Today is Friday, so we planned to bathe and get ready for the Friday prayers. I went to my cabin to prepare my clothes. There is a women’s bathing room here, and it is very good. After my bath I went upstairs to the women’s lounge to write in my diary until lunch. Nawab came and wrote in his too. We all went to the dining room for lunch when the bell rang and then went to Friday prayers an hour later. In the afternoon we returned to our writing as usual. Even Nawab sahib wrote today. We passed the whole day in this way. Finally, we ate dinner, prayed, and went to bed.

January 8, 1910: We woke up and went for breakfast as usual. The ship anchored while we were eating. They said we had reached Tur, where we would have to quarantine on board the ship for three days. The idea is very unappealing, but what can I do; we have no other choice. I am on the deck now. It is 9:00 a.m. I can see that there are two other ships also quarantining. One of them has just two hours to go before they are free from this difficulty. Thanks be to God. Al-hamdulillah. There is still our ship, though, and one other besides. This situation is extremely difficult for the unfortunate people in third class of our ship, who are already ailing and suffering. They have begun to be taken off the ship with the greatest difficulty. Some of them are so afflicted by swelling that they can’t even walk. Some have pneumonia. It is sad to see. The ship crew are removing the sick from the ship. They have set up a makeshift hospital on the deck I am on now. There are doctors too. They are moving patients right in front of me. There are both men and women here. Eleven of the men are very sick. They’ve been loaded onto boats and taken to shore. An elderly woman, a Turk, came on the deck for a while to look around, but she can’t speak anything but Turkish. We wanted to speak to her but were unable to. She laughed and left.

It’s nearly lunchtime. I went to the dining room and wrote a letter to [my nephew] Majid and [son] Mahmudullah while waiting for the meal. A Turkish man is playing the piano. Al-hamdulillah, Sarkar and I finished our meal and then spent the day in this way. I sewed a burqa for myself. Now it is five in the afternoon, and I am on the deck. I played draughts with the Turk that I have now gotten to know a bit.

Then it was evening. I took a short walk and then went to dinner in the dining room. Back in the cabin, Nawab sahib said, “I’m feeling a little warm today.” I checked; he did have a light fever. We slept well anyhow, and by the grace of God the fever was gone by morning.

January 9, 1910: 7:00 a.m. I hadn’t my breakfast yet because it was getting cold and I was starting to get a headache. Sarkar said, “It’s nothing. Quickly have your meal here [in the cabin] and then go up [on deck]. You’ll feel better.” I ordered my meal in the cabin. I ate one egg, and that too with difficulty, before going up to the [drawing?] room. It kept getting colder and colder there, though, and finally I came down with a fever. Sarkar became worried and called for the doctor, who took my temperature and gave me some medicine, which reduced my chills. The temperature did not go down, though. This doctor is English. He is elderly, poor thing, and very kind. He also brought over a Turk Muslim doctor and asked him to examine me. He looked at my throat and examined my stomach before handing me some medicine and saying, “Only give her milk and tea.” The fever lasted all evening. Finally, Sarkar brought me to the cabin at eight in the evening. The doctors checked on me. I still had a fever, so they gave me more medicine. I spent the evening groaning in pain. Sarkar looked after me with loving attention.

January [10], 1910: I still had a fever today. The doctors continued to check on me and treat me. As advised by the Turkish doctor, I was only given milk and tea. Otherwise, I didn’t know what else was happening because the fever was so intense. I continued to have a fever through the night.

January 11, 1910: Both doctors came in the morning and took my temperature. They checked my stomach. I still have a light fever today. The day passed in the same way as yesterday. The doctor came again in the evening. They did not allow me to eat anything at all.

January 12, 1910: I still have a fever today, but it is much reduced. I’m very weak. Sarkar is constantly caring for me. I am being given yogurt, tea, and milk. The day and the night passed thus.

January 13, 1910: The doctors came, checked on me, and gave me a purgative. It was another unpleasant day. I also learned that an epidemic has been declared in Jeddah and that any ships coming from there are to be quarantined for ten days. Our ship was held too; today is the fifth day. All right, five more days it is. A poor man’s anger only hurts himself. Yet Sarkar began to write letters and, after much effort, ultimately determined, “I will disembark in Egypt,” after he learned that “the ship will be required to quarantine once more in Smyrna [Izmir].” Frightened by this news, he arranged for us to leave the ship early. We were granted permission.

At night we went to rest. My fever had decreased, and I felt good enough to fall asleep, but Sarkar continued to check on me throughout the night. He had me change clothes, and then I went to bed.

January 14, 1910: After three days of fever and no food, I have become very weak, but the doctors still will not let me have food. They did give me soup though. At least the fever is gone. I had another purgative today. The day passed.

January 15, 1910: News came today: “An order has come to put the sick back on the ship. It will depart tomorrow.” The patients began to return. Most of them are from third class. The patients were packed into boats and ferried over to the ship all day long.

The ship’s crew are all such good people. They helped me in every way. They brought me everything I needed, like milk and toast, right on time, and in great quantities. They would say, “Eat this, and let us know whatever else you might need. We will bring it.” They all speak Turkish. One only speaks English. Two speak Arabic. I communicate with the two who speak Arabic and the one who speaks English. The night passed fitfully.

January 16, 1910: The ship weighed anchor at four in the afternoon. I learned we would reach Suez at five in the morning. Then it was evening, and I rested in bed.

In Suez

January 17, 1910: The ship reached Suez at seven in the morning. I struggled mightily to wake up, get dressed, and pack up my things. Sarkar packed some of it, and I had the stewards do the rest. I finished breakfast and got ready. At nine I went upstairs and gave our luggage to the Cook representative.

I was so weak that descending every step of the stairs was difficult for me. I got into the boat. This is a “steamboat”—that is, it runs on steam. It is called a “steamboat.” Before we left, the Turkish doctor who had treated me came to meet us with a smile. I took down his address so that I could send him something or other from India. Then we set off. The boat took us to the port. The Cook man dealt with our luggage. We got down from the boat and showed our passports and so on. Our luggage was then brought into the [customs] hall and given to them for inspection. Then we went to sit in a carriage and went straight to the railway station. The train was ready to depart. God brought us here just in time. If we had come just five minutes later, we would have missed this train.

We boarded without any issues. All our luggage made it aboard too. The Suez train set off. I was hungry and weak. There was a dining car on the train. Sarkar was famished too. We walked through the train until we reached the dining car. We ordered some food. Sarkar had them make me soup, and then we went back to our carriage.

We got down at some station; I forget the name. Sarkar said, “My father once visited this station. He sat right there.”4 We sat in the same place. The train to Alexandria soon arrived. We got in the first-class carriage and had our luggage loaded. There are plenty of coolies at the stations here who are ready to help you get your things into the train, but they absolutely fleece foreigners. We got off lightly because Sarkar is experienced in these matters, and he can speak their language.

A Tour of Alexandria

We reached Alexandria at 8:30. It was evening, but the city still looked beautiful. The shops were all illuminated with electric lights. This city is in Egypt, but the capital of Egypt is Cairo. We transferred from the train to a carriage. We gave our luggage directly to the hotel representative to transfer to the hotel for us safely. The practice here is for every hotel to send a representative to meet every train and every ship and then stand there asking the passengers, “Pera Hotel? Aswan Hotel?” In this way, people select whichever hotel they like best and then give their luggage to that representative.

We handed our luggage to the man from the Aswan, which is the largest and most famous hotel in Alexandria today. The hotel’s man arranged our carriage and such, and we arrived at the Aswan Hotel, which was nearby, in comfort. It is very nice. It even has a lift. Sarkar picked out a nice room, and we took the lift up to change clothes before immediately returning back downstairs for dinner. The dining room was brightly lit with electric lighting. There were hundreds of tables, each with two diners. The waiters are light-skinned and wear dinner jackets. We sat down, and the waitstaff began to bring food while always adhering to proper etiquette. Many other diners soon arrived and took their seats. There were two people at every table. I feel better now, though my sense of taste is still off. After dinner we went to the drawing room and found many newspapers available, but because I was so tired, I soon returned to the room. Sarkar came up, and, by God’s grace, we had a restful night of sleep.

January 18, 1910:5 In the morning we prayed and then went downstairs. The breakfast spread was wonderful: fruit and toast with excellent jams. We found that the butter, which was very good, was kept on ice. It is as cold here as a winter in Delhi, but they still keep the butter on ice. After breakfast Sarkar said, “You should go and sit in the drawing room. I will head to the Cook office to see about a ship to Constantinople. When I return, I’ll collect you, and we will head to the museum. For now, read the newspapers.”

He handed me an illustrated newspaper and left. I sat to have a leisurely read. There were some men and women coming in and out of the room, mostly European. Some would sit for a while to read. I was flipping through one of the papers when I suddenly turned a page and saw a photograph of Sarkar, the one I had had taken of him wearing Arab dress (fig. 7.1).6 It had a complete narrative of him too. I was baffled. How had this photo ended up in this paper? I was still thinking about this when he returned. I showed it to him and asked how this could be. He replied, “I sent that photograph to Majid in Europe. He must have gotten it printed.” I replied, “This newspaper circulates throughout all of Europe. Your picture will end up going everywhere.”

The Idols of the Kings of Egypt

I went with Sarkar in a carriage to see the museum. First Sarkar took me to see a massive pillar. Some ruler had this pillar made from stone. Its height is truly impressive. Then it was brought to Alexandria and erected. This pillar is masterful. I also saw two lions with the heads of men. Sarkar said, “These are images of two kings that have been carved into the stone, but their bodies have been made such that they appear to be seated lions.” The noses on these idols have been cut off. They are ancient. Since the production of images is prohibited to Muslims, some prophet cut their noses off because “idol worship begins from images.”7 I also saw the pit from which these images and other wondrous things had been excavated and placed in the museum.

Museum

After seeing everything there, we took a phaeton to another museum.8 There is a ticket for entry here. Sarkar purchased our tickets, and we went inside. A staff member accompanied us. This is a grand building filled with ancient objects placed in mirrored cases. These wondrous objects included carvings of such incredible quality that there is no difference between the copy and the original. Even the wrinkles and lines on their bodies can be clearly discerned. They have been adorned with clothing from that era, which is well designed. These clothes are carved directly onto the stone. You can clearly see that they have wrapped shawls around themselves or are wearing saris.9

Desiccated Royal Corpses [Mummies]

Well, we saw many wonders, but one thing that really stood out, and which filled me with both sorrow and astonishment, is that they used to build boxes to hold the corpses of kings. They would put money and jewels inside the box and then close it up and paint the image of the deceased king’s face on the lid. These people [at the museum] have stood these boxes up, some of them closed and some of them opened, and placed them inside mirrored cases that look like thrones. The deceased are still wrapped up and preserved in shrouds [kafan]. Some have their faces covered; the covering has been removed from the faces of others. They have been dried out from top to bottom and are as thin and stiff as sticks.

We spent more than two hours here and saw many things. Then we went back to the hotel to eat. By then it was 2:00 p.m. Sarkar said, “Let’s go to the ship. I’ve already settled our bill.” We went to the ship and went aboard. It will leave tomorrow. We had a good sleep in a very nice cabin and had our dinner on board.

January 19, 1910: In the morning I looked around and found the ship to be very good and clean. It is called Osmanieh [Usmaniyya]. 10 It is complete with a drawing room, a music room, a study. It is very large. Sarkar said, “There is still a long time before the ship will depart. Let’s go tour the city.” We disembarked and went for a tour, had lunch at the hotel, and then returned to the ship. The ship departed at 4:30. Since I am still weak, I began to vomit as soon as the ship moved. And not just me, many of the mems and angrez were sick as well.11 Sarkar also felt nauseous but only vomited once. I was very badly affected. I ended up going to bed without eating anything and only fell asleep with the greatest difficulty.

January 20, 1910: I still feel sick. I am vomiting less but still feel nauseous. I spent the day lying down. By God’s command, Sarkar is well now. The evening passed uneventfully.

January 21, 1910: I am better today. I washed up and got dressed. The mems are feeling better too. All the mems are very polite and refined. They’ve come from America, and two from London, just to see Constantinople. They are fond of traveling, just like us. We made friends with them all. One played the piano. One of them is with her husband, but he is a jokester. He jokes with us too. He shakes our hands and chats with us, and we also chat with him. The first three days here were very disagreeable, but today was very pleasant indeed.

In Smyrna [Izmir]

January 22, 1910: Today was also a very enjoyable day. We spent it in conversation, games, and activities. Our ship stopped in a place called Smyrna. Sarkar went to see the city. The mems and the sahibs did too, but I did not join because I am not back to my full strength yet. I learned that we would reach Constantinople at twelve, inshallah. Al-hamdulillah, the night passed uneventfully.

Notes

1. 1.Hamidullah does not mention these interactions at all, beyond noting that the “agent promised to take me on his own boat.” H. Khan, Pilgrimage to Mecca, 78.
2. 2.This ship was built in 1882. It was later sold by its Austrian owners to the Egypt-based Khedivial Mail Line.
3. 3.She sang the same ghazal on board another ship, on November 17. Her rendering of it here is not the standard form.
4. 4.Hamidullah’s father, Samiullah Khan, wrote a travelogue of his journey from Aligarh to London in 1880. Hamidullah was also on that trip. He was sixteen at the time. For Samiullah’s description of the train ride from Suez to Alexandria as indicated here, see S. Khan, Musafiran, 42–43. This description, including its enthusiasm for Egyptian railway stations, was originally published in the Aligarh Institute Gazette on September 4, 1880. It was later republished in book form. S. Khan, Safarnama-e Maulvi, 33–34.
5. 5.The diary gives the nineteenth, in error.
6. 6.An image fitting this description was published in a major illustrated newspaper, The Graphic, on January 8, 1910 (vol. 81). The text is about three sentences long. The image and its caption are accompanied by two other images, one of a “Burmese Government Servant” and another of “A Manchu Family.” These Asian images appear in a center column between articles titled “The Art of Fencing” and “The Last of the Wends: Berlin’s Recruiting Ground for Maids.” Thus, the newspaper seems to have turned Hamidullah into more of an exotic curiosity than a news item in his own right.
7. 7.Though this passage seems to endorse the view that Islam prohibits images, Begum Sarbuland had a clear appreciation for all forms of art and no objection to photography.
8. 8.In his own accounts, Hamidullah meticulously gives the full names of every place that he visits, as though he were recording a log of his movements. By contrast, his wife has little use for the names of the locations they visit but focuses rather on the points that most attracted her interest during the visit.
9. 9.These passages underline Begum Sarbuland’s lifelong interest in fashion and design.
10. 10.Hamidullah gives Ismailia. Both Ismailia and Osmanieh were the names of ships in the Khedivial fleet at the time. H. Khan, Safarnama, 1.
11. 11.The term angrez is multivalent and thus difficult to translate. It may refer to the British, to Europeans, or, in Begum Sarbuland’s usage, even potentially to Christians. Here it refers to a group of travelers who have come from “London and America,” but its precise usage varies throughout the diary.