Chapter 4Medina

The Prophet’s Servants Arrive in His Court

Ah! The land that can only be described as heaven on earth is now coming into view. May God bless the Prophet and his family.

Impassioned by our desire, we both stood up and began to look out the window, our eyes scanning frantically, looking for that radiant garden [the Prophet’s tomb]. We both wept tears of joy from our impatient desire to see his tomb. Soon we could see date palms before us. Then we could see the station and the people of Medina, all of which increased our anxious anticipation further.1

Al-hamdulillah, the train pulled into the station at four in the afternoon, at asr. Everyone here is a Muslim and a person of the faith. The Prophet’s ummah was everywhere here, wearing Medina-style abas with turbans on their heads. Ah! How beautiful and divine this clothing is. The platform was crowded with Medinans, and a few of these people were waiting for us. They came forward and, taking Nawab sahib’s hand, helped him off the train. Everyone shook hands, one after the other. Nawab sahib was wearing Medinan clothing too. All these Muslims and friends congratulated us on our arrival. “May you present yourself at the fragrant tomb of the Prophet,” they said. For us, this day is better than a thousand Eids. “Let’s go quickly,” Nawab sahib said, “so that I can pray asr in the Haram Sharif [mosque] of the tomb of the Lord of the Two Worlds.”

They all had our luggage taken from the train by their own hands, and then we exited the station. We rented two carriages, one for Amina bi and me and the other for Nawab Sarbuland Jung bahadur and the Medinan nobles. Sarkar said, “I want to walk there on foot.”2

“Ride in the carriage for now,” they replied. “We will show you from where you should go on foot.”

When the carriages reached the city walls, we stopped to read the appropriate prayer for entering Medina. From here we proceeded on foot. On the way, I suddenly realized that I would need to go to our accommodations to cleanse and purify myself [ghusl] before I could proceed to the Haram Sharif to have the honor of prostrating myself before the Chief of All Creation and attaining complete happiness in this and the next life.3

For this reason, I turned in the direction of our accommodations while, by God’s grace, Nawab sahib continued directly to the Haram Sharif to achieve his desire to perform a pilgrimage to Muhammad Mustafa, the Messenger of God. We had obtained permission from His Radiant Highness to stay in this house before leaving from Hyderabad.4 They were expecting me. When I arrived, the wife of the house’s custodian welcomed me graciously. There were also a few other bibis who are from the same city [Hyderabad], but for the last ten or twelve years, they have been prostrate at the feet of the Messenger of Allah. They live in great happiness and contentment. May God soon also allow me to prostrate myself at the door of my beloved Prophet [habib] and press my eyes to his threshold so that my anxious heart may at last find peace. My Sarkar—al-hamdulillah!—has obtained the honor of presenting himself at the blessed Haram before me. May God bless him in this life and the next, and may the Master of the Two Worlds gaze upon him and bestow kindness upon him, on his children, and on his elders and through him, on me, at every moment of every day. Amen, oh, Lord of the Worlds!

I went to our apartments after meeting all the bibis. I had heard that from this house you could see the minarets of the Haram Sharif, and so, as soon as I entered, I went straight to one of the windows in this bungalow and sat down before it. I could see the blessed minarets. They were awash in light. The mahmal will come today, and for that reason the sultan has ordered that the minarets be fully illuminated.5 I gazed at them with excitement until I cried tears of joy. I stayed there for long time, gazing at the blessed minarets in a state of longing and passion. I was still there when the lady of the house called out to me. “Please wash up and do vuzu. The food is ready.”

I looked at my watch and saw that it was 8:30 in the evening or, according to the local time, 2:30.6 I got up from the window and washed up. The dastar-khwan was already spread, but I waited for Sarkar to return from the Haram Sharif [to eat]. The food was already ready when he arrived. When he came, I went downstairs, laid out the dastar-khwan for Sarkar, and said, “By your leave, I will eat with begum sahib, the lady of the house.” Sarkar happily assented. I left.

All the bibis were waiting for me. They were happy to see me. After the meal I said goodbye to the bibis and went back to our room. It is decorated entirely in the Turkish style. The sofas are arranged along the walls and are strewn with pillows. I am exhausted. I lay down on one of the couches. Sarkar did the same. How wonderful this evening is! I am filled with yearning to visit the Luminous One. I can think of no one and nothing but him, the Messenger of Allah. May God, through the Prophet’s intercession, grant this pilgrimage to my mother, father, brothers, sisters, children, friends, and all my brothers and sisters in Islam. Amen, amen.

I was in a strange state all through the night, neither asleep nor awake. At midnight Nawab sahib did vuzu for the tahajjud prayers and then went to the Haram Sharif. I stayed at home, lost in reflection on my Lord right up until dawn.

The Land of the Beloved

December 1, 1909: I woke up and did my usual morning activities. Nawab sahib returned home. We had breakfast, and then he went back to the Haram Sharif. I went upstairs to see the bibis and mentioned to them that it would be nice if they would go out with me so that I could see the city of Medina, the very city my Prophet once walked. The city and its lanes are all blessed. They have attained the greatest honor. Two of the bibis said, “Of course we will go with you.” The three of us got ready. I put on a Medina-style burqa, and we set off. We passed by the entrance to the Haram Sharif, and the moment I saw it, my heart commanded me, “Halt!” I stopped before it with reverence. I remained standing there for fifteen minutes. The effect on my heart was so intense that it cannot be described or explained. The two bibis finally brought me to my senses. “Please, let’s go.” At their insistence, I went.

My Lord’s city is very verdant, prosperous, and populous. The food sold here is of the highest quality. Fruit sellers, grocers, and cobblers are all busy at work. There are many shops selling grains. I saw quite a bit of the city during our three-hour walk. There is always freshly cooked food to be had here. In many households here, people do not cook but simply order their meals. Every type of chutney and pickle is available. No one makes it at home. Everything you could want is available. The people of Medina are extremely polite and well-dressed. They wear clean, pressed clothes of the highest quality. Among the fruits, the pomegranates, dates, and apples are best, and plentiful too. They also have excellent olive pickle. I stopped at a cloth shop to buy some things that I will carry with me into the Haram Sharif for the children.7

When I returned home, the time for asr was nearly over. Nawab sahib had come back. “Are you ready now?”8

“I am.”

“Tomorrow is Thursday. The custom is that the muallim will come in the morning and lead us through the Bab us-Salam, according to tradition. Once that is done, you may present yourself [at the Prophet’s tomb] whenever you like. The muallim has just informed me that he cannot come now but that he will come in the morning. Our muallim has a deep and long connection with our family. He is the son of Abd ul-Karim Bartaranji.”

Having heard all this, I replied, “Very well, as you wish.”

Another evening passed in anticipation.

A Pilgrimage to the Tomb of the Prophet

December 2, 1909: I woke up early in the morning. The muallim arrived. I had breakfast and did vuzu. Then I changed my clothes, put on a burqa, put some rupees in my bag, and went out. Sarkar had already gone to the Haram Sharif ahead of me. The muallim and I departed for the Haram. My eyes and heart were anxiously waiting for the gateway to come into view. I have waited and wished for this [moment] for so long.

Just as I was thinking this, suddenly, I saw it. I read the fatiha and performed salaams as I passed through the gateway. Tears flowed ceaselessly from my eyes. The happiness I felt is beyond description. What a joyous moment this is, to finally present myself at the court of the Reformer of the Sinners, the Master of the Two Worlds, my beloved Prophet. I finished my salaam and stood where the Prophet used to pray. I prayed two rakats, for I have come here as a humble slave in want of succor and forgiveness. Then I prayed two more rakats to mark my entry into the Haram. After this the muallim led me toward that sacred space [the tomb], and I presented myself directly to my magnanimous Prophet. I kept my head bowed. At this moment, my heart could hold back no longer. A torrent of tears gushed from my eyes as I opened myself up to him and revealed the full contents of my heart (fig. 4.1).

Before doing anything else, I joined my hands and expressed the desire of my parents to make a pilgrimage to the grave of the Prophet and to demonstrate their reverence and passion [for him]. Then I reverentially read petitions in the names of each of my children. I then shared the greetings of my brothers and sisters and their spouses and stated their desire to make this pilgrimage and show their reverence. Then I expressed the longing of my friends to make a pilgrimage to the tomb of the Prophet. I affirmed Mrs. Hydari’s and Mrs. Mumtaz’s desire to perform a pilgrimage to the Haram. I prayed for their faith and happiness. May God on high, through the intercession of the family of the Prophet, the descendants of the Prophet and of Ali, and the Prophet, grant the prayers and wishes of this sinful one. Amen, amen! O Lord of the Worlds! Honor this lowly one who longs for you. Fill my heart with the heavenly light of God. Amen.

I sat there, deep in longing, in a state of intense passion. I cried ceaselessly as I opened myself up to His Eminence. I explained my piteous state directly to the merciful Prophet Muhammad Mustafa ibn Abdullah bin Abd ul-Mutallib bin Hashim. My heart refused to let me leave. After a very long time, the muallim brought me to my feet saying that there were more tombs and places that I must visit.9

The Graves of Hazrat Abu Bakr and Hazrat Umar

I rose to my feet. We walked a short distance, and I then presented myself at the graves of Abu Bakr Siddiq10 and Umar.11 I gave my salaam. The graves of these companions12 are near the Prophet’s. Salaams are made here after walking just a few steps.

In the Court of Hazrat Fatima uz-Zahra

A few more steps brought me to the tomb of the daughter of the Prophet, the first lady of heaven, the best among women, Fatima uz-Zahra.13 (Of Fatima uz-Zahra, the Lord of All Creation stated in a famous hadith, “Whoever has oppressed her has oppressed me. And whoever has oppressed me has oppressed God. And whoever has oppressed God, no matter what good deeds they have done or will do, every justice-minded Muslim may deduce how they will be treated on the Day of Judgment.” Another hadith says, “Whoever harms Fatima harms me.” How can anyone who has harmed the Prophet expect him to intervene on their behalf on the Day of Judgment? May God protect every faithful Muslim, male and female, from the anger of Fatima, and let them not antagonize her.)14 I felt a wondrous sensation while presenting myself at her grave. I stayed there for a long time and made a heartfelt, passionate salaam to her. I beseeched her. “Bibi! Please speak kind words to your father about this base woman.” The tomb of the Lady of the Plain of the Day of Judgment is located immediately beside that of His Exaltedness. After performing my salaam, my heart patently refused to leave this place because of the bounteous favor that came from focusing my eyes on the grave of the Lady of Judgment Day. At long last, though, I turned again to face the Prophet’s tomb and prayed a fatiha.

At the Blessed Tomb of My Lord, Amir Hamza

I turned toward the holy tomb of Amir Hamza and read a fatiha.15 I then presented myself at Gabriel’s Door, through which, I have heard, Gabriel would pass when he delivered divine revelations and celestial commands to the Prophet. I prayed a salaam for the four archangels and for all the other angels.16 Then I went to the women’s area of the Haram, where all the women sit to pray duruds and vazifas after completing their pilgrimage and performing their salaams. I sat there too and began to pray duruds. I stayed there so long that, by the Prophet’s grace, I was able to perform the zuhr, asr, maghrib, and isha prayers there.17 Al-Hamdulillah, Nawab sahib and I were blessed to perform these prayers with the congregation. We both returned home at 9:00 p.m., ate, and fell asleep.

A Great Assembly of Lovers of the Prophet

We woke up at one in the morning, did vuzu, and went to the Haram to perform tahajjud prayers. Here we saw that the Prophet’s shrine was already filled with people from his community who had also come to pray tahajjud. Seeing this great gathering of the Children of Unity brought a distinct pleasure to my heart. Allah! Allah! These passionate pilgrims do not just attend the five daily prayers! Countless men and women also come to his threshold to perform the tahajjud prayers. We made our salaams and prayed tahajjud and then began reciting duruds and vazifas. We continued until fajr, which we prayed according to the Shafii reckoning.18 The benefit of performing fajr in the Shafii manner is that instead of completing two prostrations for each surah, they read Surah Sajdah and thus perform three prostrations per surah.19 After the prayer we continued our duruds and vafizas until sunrise. When I finally lifted my eyes and looked around me, I saw something wonderous. I was surrounded by a sea of men and women all lost in meditation, invoking the Divine.

Departure from the Blessed Threshold

December 3, 1909: In the morning, after finishing our vazifas and the ishraq prayer,20 we salaamed every grave before returning home. There we renewed our vuzu and had breakfast. Today is Friday. I heard that tomorrow a caravan will leave for Mecca because the hajj is near. Some Bedouins have taken to creating a nuisance for the caravans, so they will leave three days earlier than intended. This means that we will also need to leave soon, whether we travel by camel or by train. This news upset me. My heart was perturbed, so much that I cannot describe it. I went into a stupor for several minutes. Ultimately, though, I bowed my head and acquiesced to the Lord of Medina’s command. Nevertheless, it seems to me that, inshallah, by the grace of God and his Prophet, I will return here again. The thought brought me some measure of peace, but my restlessness did not disappear and my heart was in constant anguish. We spent half the day in the Haram Sharif. It is a wondrous thing that when I am near his tomb, my restless heart is completely at peace. Aside from my focus on God and his Prophet, no other thought can enter my heart.

We prayed zuhr in the Haram Sharif and then went to visit the Jannat ul-Baqi cemetery.21 The journey took thirty minutes. We finished visiting all the necessary graves by asr. I wrote my name and the names of my parents on a small board. I also wrote the name of one of my close friends, Ummat ul-Islam Begum, who belongs to the family of my pir. She had asked me to write her name on a board and to bury it in the Jannat ul-Baqi. Then we left.

Nawab sahib had arranged for a reading of the Maulud Sharif in the Haram Sharif after the maghrib prayer, so we went straight there.22 Everything was ready. The Maulud Sharif began after the maghrib prayer. It lasted for a full hour, and many people participated. When it was finished, everyone prayed isha. After isha the muallim distributed sweets. Allahu akbar! By the grace of his Prophet, these sweets were so imbued with divine blessing that, with no exaggeration, they were distributed to every single person in the Haram Sharif. Everyone was so excited to receive it that they sought it out themselves. They were delicious. Maulana Maulvi Abd ul-Baqi, the son-in-law of my pir, Maulana al-Hajj Maulvi Muhammad Abd ul-Wahhab, had them prepared under his direct supervision. Any item prepared by such a venerable person that has been accepted by the Prophet in his great kindness and love for his ummah is sure to be excellent.

Once we had finished, as is proper, we read a salaam at every grave before returning home. Then we ate and went to bed. As usual, we arose at one in the morning and went to the Haram Sharif. My heart found a bit of solace here. After praying tahajjud we read vazifas until fajr. We also prayed ishraq and made salaams at the Prophet’s grave.

Today Is the Fourth of December

Saturday morning, after fajr and ishraq, we went for salaams as usual. It is impossible to describe my frenzied state. It feels as though my heart will burst out of my chest. God! The Prophet’s love and attraction are so vast. We sinners are nothing compared to it. My heart is so drawn to and so in love with the Prophet that it feels as though it is being ripped from my chest and left to writhe madly in its sorrow from separation from him. Only those who have experienced it can understand the sensation of having to depart from the Prophet’s grave. The pen lacks the power to record it. The tongue is powerless to declare it. It felt as though my soul might depart my body to remain in this blessed place. Our hearts, Nawab sahib’s and mine, commanded us to recite salaams over and over. We did, repeatedly, but it never seemed to be enough because it never could be enough. Our hearts screamed, “How can I leave such a Master? The Master who helps and supports sinners like us. It is through him that we are alive. He looks after us at every moment of our lives.” We prayed: “O Prophet of God! O Son of Abdullah! O Hashimi and Matlabi! O Master of Mecca and Medina! Having visited you, we now wish to perform the hajj and to visit the Kaaba. Please attend to us. Ask God to accept our hajj in yours and your family’s name. Ask him to forgive us and ours. Bestow your gentle gaze on all Muslims.”

We finished our supplication and left the Haram Sharif with heavy hearts and tear-filled eyes. As we departed we turned back to look upon it again and again. Alas! How quickly we have had to depart from this fragrant garden. Yes, my restless heart! Our eyes, which may only gaze on the physical world, have become separated from it, but our hearts’ eyes continue to gaze directly upon it at every moment.

We were lost in these thoughts until we reached our accommodations. Our things were ready. I went upstairs to meet with the wife of the owner of the house and the other bibis. I gave them an offering appropriate to my status. The bibis accepted it gratefully, gave thanks, and prayed for my wellbeing. Then I went back downstairs and went outside. Abd ul-Baqi sahib, my pir’s son-in-law, was waiting. I gave him an offering. He elevated my status by accepting it. He then kindly accompanied me to the station. I protested that he should not inconvenience himself, but he insisted.

On the way we encountered Abd us-Samad Kashmiri. He is a servant of the Master of the Universe and a very godly man. He is a spiritual sibling to my aunt Naushaba Begum. My deceased aunt had once had a house constructed here; he is looking after it now. He asked me to come and see it. “It is not finished yet. I have already invested five hundred rupees in it myself.” I accepted the invitation and went to see it. It looks as though it is about 2,500–3000 lokets [in size]. I also met his wife and children. I gave him an appropriate offering, which he was reticent to accept.

He also accompanied us to the station. Along the way he told me stories about my deceased aunt that I listened to attentively. He wants to have a vaqf stone affixed to the house in her name so that she may accrue a continuous supply of religious merit.23 “Very well,” I replied, “I will discuss this with Father and follow up with you in writing. You may proceed according to his recommendations.” We were still discussing the matter when we arrived at the station. Today a massive camel caravan will leave for Mecca. I’d estimate that it contained about a thousand camels. The shaghdaf is very strange; just looking at it makes me feel afraid. When I first saw one, I made a prayer: “God, by the grace of the Prophet, please let there be camel carriages rather than these shaghdafs.” Thankfully, by the Prophet’s kindness, we ended up traveling by train.24 The train was already on the platform when we arrived. I salaamed everyone. When I stepped close to Abd ul-Baqi to salaam him, he moved a bit closer and read a prayer for me in his blessed voice. He said, “Be at peace. You will return here, with all your honor intact, to visit the threshold of the Prophet again.” Coming from such a great man, these words brought me a measure of peace.25

Going to Mecca

I gave a salaam and boarded the train. Sarkar said his goodbyes and boarded too. Amina bi boarded, and our baggage was loaded. This train is much more comfortable than the last. There are two large compartments inside [each wagon]. Each has two benches on either side. If you wish, you can shut the doors and lock them from the inside. I gave one of the compartments to Amina bi, and we occupied the other ourselves.

The train pulled away, and, sadly, the land of Medina slipped from view, though even now in my heart I am standing in the Haram Sharif. I am at the most perfect grave of the Prophet. My eyes remain filled with the vision of these holy places. My filthy body was departing Medina, but my soul is still in his holy court with my palms pressed together in supplication. My deepest, truest wish is that my base, physical body should remain there.

By the Prophet’s grace, we did not encounter any difficulty or discomfort during the journey for, this time, I secretly hid some coal in a small brazier and entrusted it to Amina bi so that we could cook food for our meals. I also packed some ghee, salt, pepper, and [a meal of] khichri alu. I also have a bit of sweets from the Maulud Sharif and some cooked food too. Our entire carriage is empty. As usual, at every station Turks and Arabs nonchalantly climb into and out of the train. By chance, after two stations we once again met two Turkish soldiers who helped us throughout the journey. They even gave us some tabarruk from Medina, and we gave them some of the Maulud Sharif sweets. These Turks wrote their address down and gave it to Nawab sahib. These Turks speak a little Arabic; otherwise, their primary language is Turkish. We passed the night in peace and safety.

December 5, 1909: We spent the day watching the stations pass by until evening. The train has electric lighting, but it doesn’t work. I heard that they disabled it for fear the Bedouins would use the light as a target and fire upon the train. We slept comfortably in the darkness.

December 6, 1909: We woke up in the morning and, as usual, prayed and read vazifas. This train, we learned, has a bathroom, but it is filthy and smells terrible. The tap has no water. It’s a pity that the trains in this region have no proper sanitation. I hope this will be addressed in the future. “First class” and “second class” are just names. The fact of the matter is that every class is the same, except perhaps that there are a few cushions in first class. There is no third class. The fare is as much as twenty or twenty-five rupees. The train twists back and forth as it winds its way through the mountains. We passed several towering mountain peaks (fig. 4.2). When it was evening, we slept.

December 7, 1909: Today is the fourth day since we left Medina. We both woke up at dawn. Nawab sahib told me that we would arrive in Damascus at 3:00 p.m.

Notes

1. 1.Hamidullah’s account of arrival in the city does not reveal similar emotions but instead emphasizes that he had been there before: “As one approaches the city . . . a sort of spiritual effect begins to distinguish itself. Those who have been to Medina previously point out the [city’s] various blessed sites to the new arrivals.” H. Khan, Safarnama-e Madina, 13.
2. 2.As an expression of humility and piety.
3. 3.She remembers that she is still on her period and temporarily unable to visit the sanctuary. There are still two days left on her period. Once those passed, she would have taken a full bath (ghusl) to cleanse herself before praying or visiting the Haram.
4. 4.A reference to the nizam, who owned properties in the holy lands, including particularly charitable endowments for pilgrims. This house may have been reserved for the use of dignitaries. Hamidullah refers to it as “the rabat in Shamsiyyah Bagh” that had belonged to the family of the deceased Hyderabadi prime minister Asman Jah (1839–1898). H. Khan, Safarnama-e Madina, 13.
5. 5.The mahmal was a palanquin sent in a huge procession by the sultan near pilgrimage time to symbolize his protection of the holy lands. The primary mahmal came from Egypt, but they could also come from other regions too. That night, the lights commemorated the arrival of the mahmal from Damascus, a point recorded in her husband’s journal.
6. 6.The Islamic day begins at sunset. Thus, this line may mean that it had been two and a half hours since sunset and was thus 2:30.
7. 7.With the intention of then giving her children clothes that were blessed by their presence in the Haram Sharif.
8. 8.He asks if her period has finished.
9. 9.This passage underlines the personal and private nature of her diary. Most published accounts of the Prophet’s tomb include a detailed description of the space and only general notes on the prayers they performed, but here she does not describe the tomb at all.
10. 10.A companion of the Prophet and later the first caliph of Islam after the Prophet’s death.
11. 11.A companion of the Prophet and the second caliph.
12. 12.The Prophet’s disciples and followers during his lifetime are known as “companions.”
13. 13.The daughter of Muhammad and his wife Khadija. The location of her final resting place is uncertain, with this site visited by Begum Sarbuland being one of two likely candidates.
14. 14.This parenthetical was probably added by the book’s editor or scribe. Less likely, it might have been inserted by Begum Sarbuland at a later date. The language and content here is significantly at odds with the rest of the diary’s entries, which are devotional rather than scholastic. These parenthetical insertions also appear to have been made by a devout Shia, while Begum Sarbuland was confessionally a Sunni.
15. 15.Hamza ibn Abd ul-Muttalib was a prominent early Muslim military commander. His military exploits are legendary and have become the subject of vast epic romances that were once extremely popular in India.
16. 16.In Islam, the four “great angels” are Jibril (Gabriel), Mika’il (Michael), Israfil (Raphael), and Azra’il (Azrael).
17. 17.That is, from noon until night.
18. 18.The legal schools of Islam differ in minor details regarding Islamic practice. Individuals generally follow one school, but moving between the schools is permissible. Here Begum Sarbuland prays fajr according to the Shafii school rather than her normal Hanafi school.
19. 19.The fajr prayer stipulates the performance of four prostrations divided into two sets (rakats) done in conjunction with a reading of two individually selected surahs. However, the recitation of Surah Sajdah uniquely requires three prostrations. Thus, by selecting this surah, one may permissibly prostrate six times in two rakats.
20. 20.A supererogatory prayer that is offered after sunrise.
21. 21.A major cemetery in Medina, it contains the graves of many important figures from Islamic history.
22. 22.A recitation in honor of the Prophet.
23. 23.That is, he would like to turn the house into a charitable foundation and have the religious merit accrued to the deceased.
24. 24.Rather than go directly to Mecca by camel caravan, they instead take trains to Damascus and Beirut before sailing south toward Jeddah where she finally must travel in a shaghdaf.
25. 25.She did return, in 1934 and in 1937.