Chapter 5 The Levant and Sinai

A Visit to Damascus

I told Amina bi to prepare our belongings, for we would be getting off the train today. Those two Turks are still with us; they’ve been looking after our luggage. The train arrived in Damascus just after three. We have encountered many large stations on this journey, each of them having good sanitary arrangements and water taps installed at regular intervals. The station in Damascus was also big and bustling. A Cook representative was waiting for us when we disembarked as usual, but we also met someone connected with an Arab hotel. He praised his hotel extensively and suggested that we come and stay in it. “You are Muslims, and so are we. You must certainly come to our hotel.” Responding to his insistence, Nawab sahib asked the man for the hotel’s name. And what a sweet name it was! “The name of my hotel is Medina Munavvara, ‘The Radiant Medina.’” I immediately said to Nawab sahib that we must stay in this hotel; I was sure to like a hotel with such a name. Nawab sahib was pleased too. The owner of the hotel picked up our luggage and placed it in a fine carriage. Arriving at the hotel, we learned that the daily rate was ten annas per person. We were surprised that the hotel was so cheap. Up until then, we had only stayed in German or English hotels, whose rates were around eight to ten rupees per night. This is the first time we had encountered a Muslim hotel.

We went inside. The stairway was made of marble. Each step was carpeted. We were pleased that the hotel appeared to be so nice. Upstairs, we were given a room containing six beds, but all of them were soiled, and there were cobwebs in the corners. Though the building itself was exceedingly grand and finely built, the furnishings were anything but. The table was filthy, and the mirror was cracked. I had noticed that in English hotels they would put a sheet beneath the blanket so it would be kept free of sweat. After a traveler had used the sheet, it would immediately be exchanged for another one, and in this way the blanket would always remain clean and devoid of odors. Here, in place of blankets they had quilts—quilts so filthy that they reeked of perspiration. Oh, when will these people learn proper cleanliness? They don’t even put a sheet beneath their quilts! The room is very beautiful, with excellent floors made of marble and black stone. It is a pity that the rooms are not kept clean.

Typically, in an English hotel there is a constant supply of hot and cold water, but there was no hot water here. There was only one dirty, smelly towel. I said to Sarkar, “Well, now that I’m already here, I’ll stay the night, but only because the name of the hotel is blessed and because it is owned by people of our faith. Otherwise, I wouldn’t stay here for even a minute.” We arranged for an additional room and told Amina bi to sleep there. That’s when I noticed how foul the bathroom was. It had such a stench that it made my brain rot. Inside there was a squat toilet. There was water everywhere. In the bathroom there was a dirty tin cup and a bucket of water. The bucket had a spout. The bathroom floor was also made of marble but was filthy. I declared that I could not bring myself to use that toilet. Nawab sahib sent for a “piss pot” to be purchased for me. The bathroom was so small that it was difficult to close the door. The owner told us that the rate of ten annas per night only included our stay—food, tea, and coffee were not available.

Once I had seen all of this, I said to Sarkar that it was only four in the afternoon, but the bathroom was not clean, and I wanted to take a bath before we went out into the city. I’ve heard, I told him, that the lustrous head of the Lord of Martyrs, the Oppressed of Karbala, the One Slain by Oppression and Cruelty, the grandson of the Prophet Muhammad-e Mustafa, Imam Husain—upon whom be peace—is buried here in Damascus.1 There are also tombs here belonging to other prophets and saints. When I learned this, I was elated that we would have the honor of visiting the shrines and tombs of so many great figures. Nawab sahib replied, “All right, I will ask the man where the bathing place is.”

Sarkar then inquired with the owner, who said: “There is no hammam in the hotel, but there is one in the city.”2 When I heard this, I said that it was very inconvenient for the hammam not to be in-house but in the city. “How am I to quickly bathe and be ready to go out now? I’m still dirty from the train, it’s time for the afternoon prayer, and we are only here for one night!” Sarkar told me, “The way things work here is that men’s and women’s hammams are in the city. Everyone, male and female, goes there to bathe. It doesn’t matter whether you’re rich or poor; everyone goes. The hammams are relaxing and very nice, and there are always people bathing in them.” I replied that if that was the practice, then fine, take me to the hammam. “I’ll have a quick bath and then go and visit the shrines.” I put a pair of clothes, some soap and flour,3 a comb, and so forth into a small bag and left Amina bi at the hotel to keep an eye on the luggage. Sarkar got out some clothes too, saying that he would bathe as well.

“Everyone’s Naked in the Bathhouse”

We set off and found two hammams nearby: one for men, the other for women. I knocked on the door, and a woman appeared. When she saw me, she said, “Welcome, come in, come in.”4 I went inside. Sarkar told me to bathe quickly: “I’ll have a quick bath and then come out and wait for you.” I agreed and went inside. I saw thirty or forty women gathered there. There were many small rooms in which rugs and carpets had been spread. In the very center of the hammam’s courtyard was a ceiling of translucent glass, such that sunlight could enter, but the wind would stay out. In the middle of the courtyard was a pool filled with water. Light-skinned, rosy women who had finished with their baths were busy getting dressed. Others were taking off their clothes and heading into the hammam to bathe. All the men and women in Damascus are very light-skinned, with the exception of the Africans.

I paused, thinking to myself that this was quite a dilemma. I’ll wait to begin my bath, I thought, until everyone else has finished. This being my intention, I was standing there waiting when a woman came up to me, took the bag from my hand, and began to remove my clothes. I said: “Wait, wait!”5 She retorted, “No, hurry!”6 and said God knows what else in Arabic. I acquiesced when I saw that she had no intention of listening to me. She removed my clothes. I wrapped myself up in a towel, and she took me by the hand and led me away. When I entered the next room, oho! It was so hot my feet were immediately burned. There were vents in the ceiling above that allowed natural light to filter in and the hot steam to escape. I said, “Hey, you tyrant! Hang on, my feet are burning!” But she kept on dragging me, saying, “Come on, come inside.” We passed through three different levels of the hammam and entered the fourth, where I saw many women seated barefooted before water taps, busy washing themselves. Hot water comes out of one tap, and cold water from the other. There are small basins installed near the taps that fill with water when you release them.

The woman began to rub my body, washing me. In fact, three or four of the women stopped bathing themselves, came over, and began to scrub me as well. In Arabic, they asked me, “Who are you? Where are you from?” I said to them, “I am Indian. In India, the hammam is at home. In town, there is no hammam, but here, I saw the hammam is in the town; in the home there is none. I am astonished.”7 With great effort, I managed to answer a few of their questions. These women washed me more thoroughly than I’d ever been washed in my entire life. Here I was in a huge rush to leave, and they kept on pouring out more and more water!

At last, I managed to escape them. I wrapped the same wet towel around myself, so I would not be entirely naked when I exited the hammam, but all of them called out to me, saying, “Hey, sister, [only] women here.”8 I said, “Yes, but I want a towel.”9 I began to leave, but they took hold of me, saying, “Don’t go, don’t go, sit, sit down for just a while more.”10 I replied, “I don’t wait. I am in a hurry, husband at door.”11 They reluctantly released me. I exited the bathing area. When I first entered the hammam, my feet were burned from the heat; now, on exiting, the very same floor felt cool to the touch. I rushed to the exit and took a seat on a bench in the courtyard. A woman came and began to dry my hair. She asked me, “Oh, Indian, are you well?”12 I replied, “Very well.”13 To make a long story short, I got dressed and handed the woman a shilling. I said goodbye, picked up my bag, and went out to find Sarkar waiting for me outside. We returned to the hotel to give Amina bi my bag and immediately set off.14

The Umayyad Mosque

We went to the famous Umayyad Mosque first. We went in a rush so that we would not miss the maghrib prayer. We passed through the Damascus bazaar on the way. The bazaars here are roofed, so the people inside them remain protected from the elements. Typically, bazaars are open-air. They often have canals of flowing water. All the people of Damascus have white skin and a rosy complexion. The women’s dress is entirely “European,” and even their hair is kept in the same style as that of “European ladies,” though they do not wear hats. Whether rich or poor, whenever ladies here go out for a walk or go shopping, they put on a simple skirt. On their heads they wear a shawl of the same color. This shawl extends down to their hands. Before leaving home, they draw a niqab over their faces, put gloves on their hands, and pick up an umbrella. Oftentimes, older women will tie a handkerchief around their heads, but their outfit is always the same, either something resembling a “dressing gown” or else a skirt and blouse akin to those European ladies wear. Children wear a similar frock, and many of them tie a handkerchief over their face as high as their ears. Here, the custom is for all Muslim women to go out in the city without any big to-do. This is a great convenience for them—may God grant the women of India the same freedom from their unjust imprisonment. There was another thing here that pleased me greatly—namely, that whenever women go out in the city, the men keep their distance and treat the women with respect. This is in contrast with India, where women have no respect before men. Oh, how unfortunate are the people of India!

Two-horse carriages are ubiquitous and very cheap. Phaeton carriages and other vehicles are also widely available. In our India, the common people use simple yakkas and tangas [horse carts], while here fine carriages are the norm. We all finally arrived at the doors of the mosque, taking in all the sights along the way. When we arrived, there were still ten minutes until maghrib, so I began to examine the mosque from top to bottom. I am incapable of giving a fitting description of it. It is extremely large and very beautiful. The floors are covered in exquisite carpets. Lighting is provided by ornate glass lamps, and the walls are all built of marble. The courtyard of the mosque comprises a large open-air floor, the whole of it made of marble. At that moment, all the mosque’s chandeliers were illuminated. All the wall lamps were lit as well.

Offering Prayers in the Umayyad Mosque

The leader took his place on the pulpit. The call to prayer began, recited in the most melodious tones. We first performed two rakats upon entering the mosque. The takbir reached our ears, and all those who had come for the prayer got to their feet. It seems that here the takbir is given by several callers posted throughout the mosque. Because of this arrangement, you can easily hear the takbir at the appointed moment for bowing and prostration no matter how near or far you are from the front. Although I was in the back, I heard it clearly. Al-hamdulillah, I prayed maghrib. When I began to have a look around after finishing my prayers, what did I see but four different teachers, each sitting in his own corner—one for the Hanafis, one for the Shafiis, one for the Malikis, and one for the Hanbalis—giving sermons and guidance to the people.15 Masha Allah, how wonderful it was! The splendor of Islam has spread widely here! Every task is performed entirely in keeping with the dictates of the noble sharia. I stayed there for a while listening to the sermons and lessons. Unfortunately, these were given in Arabic and Turkish, and I could not understand them.

At the Tomb of Yahya

We then visited the holy shrine of our lord Hazrat Yahya.16 This blessed tomb is located inside the main hall of the mosque itself. It is surrounded on all four sides by an ornate railing made of glittering silver and gold. The grave is elevated and very large. We lifted the covering and, standing at the entrance to the tomb, prayed a fatiha and made a salaam.

The Tomb of Hud17

After this, we went to the shrine of the prophet Hud. The location is only indicated by some green stones set into the wall. I have heard that his blessed tomb is below these stones. We prayed another fatiha and salaamed the saint.

The Blessed Tomb of Hazrat Khizr18

Having received blessings in these places, we then presented ourselves at the shrine of Hazrat Khizr. Here too were those same markers set into the wall. We both made salaams in the name of Hazrat Khizr.

The Blessed Shrine of the Head of the Martyr of Karbala, Imam Husain

After having seen everything here and, al-hamdulillah, having been blessed by our visits to these shrines, we went to present ourselves before the Martyr of Tyranny and Injustice, the forbearing youngest grandson of the merciful Prophet, our dear Imam Husain. I had heard that the head of my dear imam is buried here. We presented ourselves and stood reverentially before the shrine. The moment we arrived, my heart was overwhelmed by a strange sensation that I am incapable of describing. Nawab sahib said, “Just look at the effect that this place has on our hearts.” “Yes,” I replied, as we both began to weep. I wished I could stay there forever. A full hour passed, and yet we had not moved. Our hearts were unwilling to leave. It was only when the call to isha prayer sounded that our hearts came to their senses. We again recited a fatiha and, giving our respects once more, took our leave. Allah, Allah! Only those who have experienced the kindness and mercy the family of the Prophet bestows on the members of this sinful community of believers may truly know the joy it brings. I am unable to describe the sense of tranquility and comfort that descended upon my heart here and the extent to which I was affected by this experience.

We then went into [the mosque] and joined the group gathered there for prayers. We were blessed to offer the isha prayer here, praise God! People filtered out of the mosque, and we too exited and leisurely made our way back to the hotel, visiting the bazaar on the way. The hotel staff had purchased food and kept it ready for us. We ate and then had coffee. The coffee here is extremely flavorful. We drank it and went to bed.

December 8, 1909

In the morning we woke up and prayed fajr. Al-hamdulillah. After breakfast, I very much wanted to go back to the hammam to bathe again, in part because it gave relief to my body but also because it was one of the more memorable experiences of our trip. I expressed these thoughts to Sarkar, who asked the hotel owner if there were any hammams open in the morning, for if so, we should like to go. He replied, “No, not open until after noon.”19 As we were planning to catch a twelve o’clock train, I said that it didn’t matter, leave it be. But then, a short while later, the hotel manager came and said, “There is a hammam opening in thirty minutes. My wife is coming now. She will take your wife there and show it to her.” I got my bag and put my clothes and things in it. Once I was ready, I sat to wait so that we could depart the moment the Arab woman arrived. Soon an Arab woman wearing a beautiful Turkish skirt and a niqab appeared before me and said, “Bismillah, please, let’s go.”20

We went out with her. Sarkar went to wait for the train. This woman took me to her house. I particularly liked it because it was much cleaner than the hotel. A canal of water ran through it. The house was two-storied. She showed me the first floor before we proceeded to the second. Here I found a large room with the floor covered by a beautiful carpet. There were beautiful sofas and chairs. The hotel owner’s mother was seated on a soft mattress set on a raised platform. The poor woman was very weak. When she saw me enter the room, she raised herself up with the greatest difficulty, saying, “Please, please, come in.”21 I took this bibi by the hand and helped her to sit down again, saying that she should not trouble herself. Then the hotel owner’s sister and young daughter appeared. All these women were dressed in European clothing. The child was wearing a frock. They were all very beautiful; their complexion was extremely fair.

I don’t like the style of Damascene houses. For one thing, they are all several stories high, and the rooms are often dark. This room, however, was very bright. Soft, cushioned seats lined the walls for people to sit on. I went and sat near to the hotel owner’s mother. All these bibis spoke Arabic. Unfortunately, I could only understand them with difficulty. They were very hospitable toward me. They served me coffee. Coffee here is drunk without milk, yet it is still very delicious. It is consumed from tiny little cups called finjan.

Twenty minutes later, the hotel owner’s wife got up, put on her niqab, and said, “Come, sister, we must go to the hammam.”22 “OK,” I replied.23 I said goodbye, kissed their hands, and left. The custom here is to join hands and kiss one another at the time of departure. The bibi and I arrived at the hammam about ten minutes later. Just as before, I went inside. I had a relaxed bath, got dressed, and then left again. I gave a beşlik24 to the hammam attendants and eight annas to the hotel owner’s wife. This made her very happy.

I met Sarkar while we were still on the way. We returned to the hotel to collect Amina bi and the luggage. We paid the hotel owner what we owed him. The hotel owner’s wife came to me once more and said, “Come, I will show you around.” I said to Sarkar that we still had a little time and that, if he so willed, I would go with this woman for a while. Sarkar assented, and I left with this bibi. She took me to a shop, the owner of which appeared to be European. I asked him, “You speak English?” He said, “Yes.” I bought a warm pair of gloves and three beautiful frocks that caught my eye and quickly returned to the hotel.

Going to Beirut

Sarkar was waiting for me when I got back to the hotel. We went outside, where we found a beautiful phaeton waiting. We climbed in and headed for the station. The train was already on the platform when we arrived, so we easily boarded and took our seats. We had Amina bi sit elsewhere. The carriage Sarkar and I were in was extremely comfortable. There were velvet cushions and nice, clean benches to sit on. Strangely enough, although we were in first class, there was no bathroom. We were told the journey will take fifteen hours. We are to disembark at Beirut, inshallah.

Al-hamdulillah, the train departed and traveled along a canal for miles and miles. This canal runs through Damascus too. Here and there we saw gardens, trees, and little settlements. We saw huge mountains rising high above us. All in all, it made for a wonderful tour. Then it was evening. Sadly, there was no moonlight, so we could no longer enjoy the views. They say we will arrive at Beirut at eleven tonight.

Beirut is getting closer. A few stations before Beirut, two gentlemen got into our carriage. I lay down to rest. Sarkar continued to sit. One of them left the train again, and one remained seated. He began to talk to Sarkar. In his hand he held several bundles of narcissus flowers. He gave a few of the bundles to Sarkar before getting off at the next station. We were very comfortable there. Then, while the train was still moving, the guard came by to collect our tickets. The system here is that the tickets are collected from the passengers one station before arrival. This meant that we were just one station away. Two hours later we were in Beirut. The station is in town.

In Beirut

The train stopped. We both got off and retrieved our luggage. Here the coolies all swarm around you and eat you alive. One says, “I’ll carry your things,” while another goes on running his mouth simultaneously. We selected two coolies with great difficulty. There are many hotels here, all of them nearby. It was already midnight, and I wanted nothing more than to go to the hotel and sleep. As is standard here, the train was met by representatives from various hotels who came and asked us to go to their hotel. “Come with us, come with us!” Each of them sang their own hotel’s praises. They are all so annoying. Sarkar told them that we were looking for the Cook representative, but they just wouldn’t listen. I said that we were only staying here for a single night and that the night was already half over anyhow. “Come, let’s just pick one of their hotels and go there.” Sarkar agreed, and we selected the closest one. It was called Kaukab us-Sabah. This one also belongs to a Muslim. It had the same grandeur as the one in Damascus, with marble and everything, but was still filthy nonetheless. Well, at least we made it through the night. Al-hamdulillah.

December 9, 1909: I woke up and did my usual morning routine. Then I prepared my outfit and got dressed. Nawab sahib had tea and then went to make arrangements for the ship. After he left, I put on a burqa and went outside. I walked around for a while and had a look at the buildings. I didn’t go too far for fear of losing my way. There is a tramway here. I was still looking around when Sarkar came and said that he wanted to take Amina bi and our luggage to the ship. “Everything has been arranged. You please wait in the hotel for now.”

“Very well,” I replied.

Sarkar took Amina bi and the luggage to the ship while I returned to the hotel and practiced my Arabic with the owner. I’m now able to speak just enough to cover my needs. Later a pearl seller came by and began to show me his wares. I picked out a few that I liked, but they were overpriced. I didn’t like that and returned the pearls to him. I went back to practicing my Arabic with the hotel owner. Sarkar-e ala soon came and said, “Let’s go. I want to show you Beirut. We’ll sit in the tram. The ship won’t leave for a while.” “With pleasure,” I replied, “I’m ready to tour Beirut.” We said goodbye to the people at the hotel and left. We walked a short distance to a tram stop and climbed aboard. We spent two hours exploring the city on the trams. On the tram I met several mems. I also met a Jew, but everyone I met spoke only French or Arabic. I only met one lady, an American, who could speak English. I spoke to this American lady for a while. We exchanged addresses.

At Sea, Again

We got off the tram after two hours and went straight to the port. We took a small boat out to the ship. This is a German ship too.25 God only knows why German ships are so filthy. I hate this German company’s ships!

This ship is larger than the last German ship but just as dirty. The cargo even includes horses, cows, and chickens. These animals make everything stink. I went straight to my cabin. The cabins have four berths each. They are all right. I had just arrived when four mems came in. Three of them stayed, and the fourth left. The three mems and I each arranged our things and got settled in. We kept glancing at one another, wondering who was going to break the ice. It ended up being me. I asked, “Where are you coming from? And where are you going?” I asked these questions in English. None of the three answered me. They just looked at me and laughed. From the way they were laughing, I could tell that they had not understood my language. I said a word in Arabic, and one of them smiled and said, “I know Arabic. Don’t know English. Don’t know French.”26 We chatted, and I learned that the second woman only knew French, and the third, Russian. We all had a good laugh at the situation. There are four ladies all in one place, each of them from another country, and none of them knows the language of the other. All they can do is stare at one another. Of course, I can speak a bit with the lady who knows Arabic. If we also use hand gestures, we’re able to understand each other a little. The Russian and the French lady, though, can do nothing but sit and laugh. All three of them are wearing English-style clothing. They are uncouth and entirely savage in their manners and etiquette. They are ungracious and have foul moods, except for the Arab one. She is all right.

The dinner bugle sounded at eight. We all went to eat. After eating I retired to the cabin and slept.

In Jaffa

December 10, 1909: Our ship arrived in Jaffa in the morning. I woke up, washed up, and got dressed. Nawab sahib came to me. “Let’s eat breakfast and have a look around. The ship has already arrived in Jaffa.”

“All right,” I replied.

We went to the table, had tea and the like, and then went up on deck. I watched them unload horses and cows from the ship. They bind the cows’ front legs and lower them down onto boats. For the horses, they tie a rope around their waist and lower them down. I’d heard that the water is choppier here than elsewhere, but today it is perfectly still. Despite that, the boats are bouncing around and shuddering. Two of the women in my cabin departed, but another two arrived. They’re both Russian. The Arab mem is still there though.

The ship only stayed here an hour before leaving. I spent the day either writing in my diary on the deck or coming and going from my cabin. In the evening I washed up. The dinner bell rang, and everyone went to eat. I didn’t like the food and had to force myself to eat it. Then I went to the cabin to rest. Sarkar did the same in his own cabin.

[December 11:] I woke up as usual and went to have breakfast with Nawab sahib. They only serve toast and tea. There is no butter, jam, or fruit. You don’t get enough to fill you up. The ship is dirty. I went to the deck to have a stroll. The Arab mem mostly stays in the cabin. I don’t feel happy on this ship. The day passed. I had dinner and went to my cabin. So did Sarkar-e ala. We both slept. I should tell my readers that I refer to my husband, Nawab Sarbuland Jung Bahadur, as Sarkar-e ala.27 The night passed, and another day ended.

At Port Said

December 12, 1909: In the morning, the ship was already at Port Said. We reached [the port] at 5:00 a.m. I woke up at six excited to finally escape this ship. I quickly washed up and got ready. Sarkar came, and we prepared our things and had our breakfast. The Arab mem boarded the small boat with me. Al-hamdulillah, God had at last delivered us from that disgusting ship! My attendant [Amina bi] was with us. I’ve forgotten the name of the ship, but it is recorded in Sarkar’s diary. We both went to the station [port] in Port Said and had our luggage unloaded there. Once everything was arranged, Sarkar instructed a coolie to take Amina bi and our things to the train while we visited Port Said. It was a quick tour because the train was due to depart at 12:00 p.m. and we had to get back soon. After a quick tour we went to the Ashtaran Hotel and had a delicious meal.

After this rushed breakfast, we hurried to the station. Sarkar collected the tickets while I loaded Amina bi into the train with our luggage and then went to my own compartment. The train began to move just a few moments after Sarkar returned. He said that we would need to change trains during the journey and that we should go to Suez. We would need to transfer at Ismailia. We arrived at Ismailia Station two or three stops later and left the train. We got down, and Sarkar went to unload the luggage. I went ahead without him and retrieved Amina bi.28 The second train was standing across the platform. First, I got Amina bi and the luggage into a carriage, and then Sarkar and I went to sit in our compartment. There is so much dust and sand in the air here that all the benches are covered in it.

At Suez Station

We reached Suez Station at 4:30. Al-hamdulillah. We both disembarked. This is a small town. There are hotels and such here, but on inquiry we were told that the port was far away. Sarkar said that we should stay near the port because he needed to make inquiries [for our onward travel]. We hired an excellent phaeton with two horses. Our luggage was loaded into a second carriage. We had Amina bi sit inside this second carriage and dispatched it to the port. Then we left in our phaeton, taking in the scenery along the way and viewing the Suez Canal. We reached the port in about twenty minutes and went to a nearby hotel. The hotel looked small but was in fact beautiful and luxurious, with “electric lights.” It is clean and comfortable. We took two rooms: one for Amina bi and the luggage, the second for ourselves. In the evening we washed up and got dressed. We went to dinner when the bell sounded. The food was very good. Then we went back to the room and went to sleep. By the grace of God, the night passed uneventfully.

December 13, 1909: We woke up in the morning. After fajr we had breakfast. Sarkar went out to make arrangements. Meanwhile, I wrote and mailed letters to Hyderabad and Lucknow, to my pir, to my father, etc. Sarkar, having made our arrangements, came back around the time I finished my writing. We had breakfast.29 The food was good. After eating we boarded the ship. [First,] we took a leisurely stroll along the sea toward the port. Sarkar had me sit in a room in the port building. There were many other rooms near it. Many other hajjis were standing outside. I showed my passport and documents. A doctor came and checked my pulse. There are many Turks. All the police are Turkish too. I sat down on a chair, observing everything. I kept my bag and umbrella close. Near my room, just five or so steps away, was a docked ship that looked like a train. It seems that the sea is deeper here, and the ground is higher. The ship was connected to the dock via a ramp with steps.30 People went up and down. Many carriages, buggies, and camels were loaded. I heard that the day before yesterday the khedive of Egypt traveled to Jeddah and that they are now sending his luggage after him.31 There were even flags strung around the port [in celebration of his departure]. The carriages are being loaded with great care and precision. I was told that the ship will leave at three. It took Sarkar about an hour to arrange everything. Then he came back.

On a Turkish Ship

We boarded the ship along with our luggage. The name of this vessel is Khedive Oil Boat.32 It is a Turkish boat. Its crew includes both Muslims and Europeans. It is very clean. We are in first class. There are excellent purdah arrangements for women travelers in our class. This is the only ship I have seen with purdah arrangements for women travelers. It is a credit to Islam. While this ship cannot compete with P&O vessels, it is still very clean and comfortable. In any case, may God save us from the absolute filth of the Austrian ships.

We got settled in and arranged our things. Sarkar had one cabin. I stayed a short distance away in a cabin in the women’s section. There are six beds in my cabin. The bathroom is very close and very good. I had Amina bi stay nearby. Sarkar’s cabin has three beds. His cabin is just across from my own.

I took a sea bath. By then it was 2:30 p.m. The ship was still docked. I got dressed etc. Sarkar got ready too; then we went to the deck. There is a canvas canopy. Quite a few passengers here have simply rolled out their bedding right on the deck. They are all going for hajj. The ship departed but at 3:30 p.m. rather than at 3:00. A little while later the passengers began to do vuzu. They sound the azan at prayer times on this ship. Ah! What an Islamic blessing! As soon as we heard it, we both went back below deck to do vuzu. Sarkar did his asr prayers outside. I did mine in my cabin. Then I sat to write in my diary and continued with this until I heard the maghrib azan. After praying I went out for a little walk. As there is no one in first class but us, it is entirely empty, and I can walk around quite comfortably. Then dinner was served. The food was placed before me. I had heard that there were fully seven people in second class. May God have pity on the unfortunate people traveling in third class; they are numerous. We prayed isha and then returned to the table to eat. The food was excellent and carefully prepared. The captain of the ship ate with us. He is an elderly man with much experience and a Muslim. We had a long conversation on religious matters and took turns reciting verses from Qur’an. After dinner we went to bed.

A Stay near Mount Sinai

December 14, 1909: I woke and prayed fajr. Amina bi, the poor thing, is feeling very seasick today. Soon our ship anchored near Mount Sinai. They say this is the true Mount Sinai. The one I heard about in Nazareth is just using the same name. Moses once led the twelve tribes of his nation through these waters. Pharaoh drowned in this very spot. From this sea begins a road that leads straight to the Nile. We both read a fatiha for the Prophet Moses. The ship didn’t stay here long. There are said to be many fruits here. They say that the place where Moses crossed is called Gharb in one direction and Zafaran in the other. Soon it was evening. I slept after isha.

December 15, 1909: Our ship stopped in the morning at a place called Lalluja. The khedive of Egypt’s luggage, his camel carriages, etc., were being unloaded. There are motorcars too. They say that after coming back from Mecca he will travel to Medina from here. He has a lot of luggage with him.

I got ready and went to the table. Nawab sahib came too. We had breakfast and then went to the deck. Sarkar strolled in one direction while I went off in another. While walking, I saw a few Egyptian women sitting in third class. There is a door between our deck and theirs. I walked over to the door, opened it, and gestured to them so that I could have a conversation in Arabic. These poor but noble women came and sat just before the doorway and began to speak in Arabic. By now I can understand Arabic a little bit better than before. I examined their burqas and clothing attentively. They are also going to Mecca for the hajj. I couldn’t learn much about them because I don’t yet speak Arabic well enough. I took my leave from them and went to look out at the sea.

There are many fish here of a reddish, golden color. The people catch them and sell them, and then the passengers buy them and cook them. God, have mercy on the Muslim community, and may the Prophet help the Muslims! The place where these people stay is dirty and strewn with trash. It is the passengers themselves who have dirtied it. The ship’s crew is lazy and disorganized. Our waiter does not clean our cabin or our shoes on time. The crew is surly too.

I spent the day watching all these little spectacles. Finally, the day ended. Dinner was served on time. Afterward, I went to my cabin to write up all that I had seen during the day in my diary. Then I slept.

[December 16, 1909]: We both woke up on our own time and did vuzu. We prayed fajr and then got dressed and went to the table to eat. When we went to the deck, we saw that the entire ship was being washed. Today is December 16, 1909. They say we will reach Rafi at five today, and then we must put on our ihrams.33 The captain announced, “When we reach Rafi, I will sound my ‘bugle.’ This is the sign for you all to get ready.” As usual, I went to the deck and stood by the railing, where I heard this announcement. Suddenly, though, my sari got caught in the railing, on a piece of metal that moved up and down. The fabric had gotten pushed inside a hole in the metal. I tried to extract it as soon as I realized, but it had already gotten entirely stuck. I tried to pull it toward me, but it wouldn’t come out. Sarkar was far away, so I sat and waited for Amina bi to come so that I could ask her to fetch some scissors to cut the sari. I was still waiting when, by the will of God, the metal changed position again and the sari easily came out, though it was now completely soiled.

I went downstairs and changed. At two in the afternoon, the steward came and cleaned the cabin. The servants on this ship are a bit daft. This one spread out the rug at an angle. I asked him to please straighten it out, and his excellency replied, “No mind.” It made me laugh. At 3:30 p.m. we bathed, put on clean clothes, and prepared to don our ihrams. The azan for asr began. Sarkar went to pray in the men’s area. I prayed in the cabin. After asr the bugle sounded. We had reached Rafi. We all put on our ihrams. Then it was evening. We had dinner and then went to sleep.

Notes

1. 1.Imam Husain (626–680) was the grandson of the Prophet and the third Shi’i imam. He was killed and beheaded in a massacre at Karbala. There are several claimed locations for the burial of his head, including in Damascus.
2. 2.“Ma fi hammam ila hotel, lakin hammam fi al-balad.”
3. 3.To be used as a scrub or exfoliant.
4. 4.“Marhaba, tafadhal, tafadhal.”
5. 5.“Asbar, asbar!”
6. 6.“la, ujr.”
7. 7.“Ana Hindi. Al-Hind hamam al-bait, al-balad ma fi hammam lakin hina ana shuftuh hammam fi al-balad, al-bait ma fi. Ana ta‘jub.”
8. 8.“Ya ukhti, hurmuhu hina.”
9. 9.“Na‘m lakin ana baghit rumal.”
10. 10.“Ma baruh, ma baruh, ajlas, ajlas, shuaya.”
11. 11.“Ana ma asbar. Ana ‘ujlat. Ana al-jauz al-bab fi.”
12. 12.“Enti al-Hindi tayyab?”
13. 13.“Kathir tayyib.”
14. 14.For an analysis of this and the preceding interaction, see Majchrowicz, World in Words, 170–72.
15. 15.These refer to the four major schools of jurisprudence in Sunni Islam. By making available space for each school, visitors were able to attend lectures and discussions in accordance with their own legal affiliations.
16. 16.John the Baptist.
17. 17.A prophet, after whom the eleventh book of the Qur’an is named.
18. 18.Khizr, or Khidr, is a mystical figure widely believed to possess great wisdom. He is believed to be mentioned in the Qur’an, though never explicitly.
19. 19.“La, ba‘d zuhr raftani.”
20. 20.“Bismillah, tafadhal, emshi.”
21. 21.“Tafadhal, tafadhal.”
22. 22.“Ta‘l ya sitti, nahnui nahnui hamam lazim.”
23. 23.“Na‘m.”
24. 24.An Ottoman coin.
25. 25.The ship was Austrian.
26. 26.“Ana araf arabi, la araf English, ma araf French.”
27. 27.It is difficult to explain why this unexpected note—like a later one that introduces Amina bi—appears nearly halfway through her account, especially since the term sarkar-e ala has already appeared several times. Had it been an addition made during the editing process, it surely would have come earlier in the diary. One might speculate that, as she wrote, Begum Sarbuland began increasingly to think of her diary as a travel account that would be shared more widely than had perhaps been her first intention.
28. 28.Amina bi was seated in another, presumably less luxurious part of the train.
29. 29.This is not a second breakfast but a different type of meal. In the first instance, she writes having had nashta, and in the second, of having “breakfast.” The latter here clearly refers to an English-style breakfast, and the earlier nashta was a lighter meal perhaps including some type of Indian snacks.
30. 30.Her vocabulary here is all borrowed from the language of train travel. She calls the dock a “platform” and the port a jahaz ka isteshan, or “ship station.”
31. 31.Abbas Hilmi Pasha (or Abbas Hilmy II), the final ruler of Ottoman Egypt. He was deposed by the British in 1914. The khedivate was abolished, and Egypt was made formally into a British protectorate.
32. 32.Sarbuland Jung gives Rahmanieh. It was built in 1865 and broken up soon after their trip. H. Khan, Safarnama-e Madina, 12.
33. 33.Rafi marks the boundary after which pilgrims should enter a state of ihram, or purity, and put on the ihram garment prescribed for all pilgrims.